As we count down to the 22nd edition of AUTOR International Contemporary Jewelry Fair, happening on May 10–11 at Unirea Shopping Center, Bucharest, we continue to spotlight the artists who left a lasting mark on the AUTOR community. One such voice is Huimin Zhang, a Chinese-born, London-based artist and the recipient of the Contemporania Award at AUTOR 2024.
Huimin’s sculptural yet emotionally charged jewelry draws on themes of femininity, resilience, and personal transformation. Her celebrated series “Golden Mammary”, inspired by a close friend’s experience with breast cancer, blends powerful symbolism with refined craftsmanship. A lifelong antique jewelry collector, Huimin fuses Eastern and Western traditions in work that is at once deeply personal and universally resonant.
In this exclusive interview, Huimin shares insights into her process, inspirations, and what it means to “live like a summer flower” — the poetic concept at the heart of her ongoing artistic journey.
Your pieces blend the sculptural and the wearable in such a distinct way. How did you develop this hybrid language of form and function?
A: My “Golden Mammary” series was actually inspired by my closest friend who was diagnosed with
breast cancer. During those painful days, I once dreamed that beautiful, robust flowers were blooming on her breasts, just like her — strong and brilliant. From the beginning, the series naturally appeared three-dimensional in my mind. Their three-dimensionality allows me to feel more inherent power.
What concepts are most present in your current practice? Are there recurring themes that continue to inspire you?
A: The concept I most frequently present is related to “Live like a summer flower – Golden Mammary.” I will continue to create a series titled “A Woman Like a Flower,” with 100 flowers around the theme of living like a summer flower. In summary, I focus on topics such as women, health, and a positive attitude toward life. This is also a reflection of my own insights into life as a middle-aged woman.
As an artist with roots in China and a practice based in London, how does your cultural background influence your aesthetics or material choices?
A: I am an antique jewelry collector, and after fifteen years of collecting thousands of pieces, I have developed a deep love for traditional craftsmanship. When I study ancient techniques, I often feel as though I am communicating with the past. Studying jewelry design at the Royal College of Art in London has given me the opportunity to understand the similarities and differences of traditional crafts in Western countries and other East Asian countries. However, they all share a respect for the eternity of gold as a material, and most countries have an extreme pursuit of fine craftsmanship. All of these have had a profoundly positive impact on my aesthetic.
Your use of scale, texture, and spatial dynamics feels very architectural. Does your design process begin with sketches, concepts, or material experimentation?
A: My design process begins with concept, followed by partial material experiments, then sketches, and finally creating while simultaneously adjusting according to the sketches to achieve the best effect.
What does jewelry allow you to express that other mediums might not?
A: Jewelry allows me to express very delicate, even momentary subtle emotions freely. I can then wear
these tiny emotions to express myself, which is difficult for other mediums. Unlike clothing that completely exposes everything, jewelry can be a narrative carrier of multiple stories or a memento of beautiful memories.
Winning the Contemporania Award at AUTOR was a special moment — how did it impact your confidence or visibility as a creator?
A: First, AUTOR is an excellent platform for contemporary jewelry with extensive promotional power, which had an immediate effect on expanding my visibility. Last year’s AUTOR was the first fair I participated in after graduating, and I was honored to receive the Contemporania Award. This undoubtedly represented the audience and judges’ affirmation, and their beautiful words significantly boosted my confidence.
What are you currently working on, and what directions would you like to explore next?
A: I’m still creating around the “Live like a summer flower” theme. This year, I will incorporate other materials such as stones and enamel into my work, and perhaps next year, I will explore more embroidery and metal coloring. I firmly believe that continuous learning of new techniques is the only way to create unique works by integrating them.
